Wednesday, December 21, 2005

Easy like (a Little Empress on) Sunday morning

Yes, I know, I have been rubbish and my blog is in a terrible state of neglect. What can I say? Our company's cultural intern has left (and was AWOL for the best part of his internship before that anyway, leaving me to play secretary), the senior manager is returning to her home country and I have been promoted to take over her as Department Head. One of my colleagues has gone on annual leave and nominated me to (wo)man the fort while she is away. And those new tasks have been added on to my not unsubtantial normal workload which means that I have taken on the tasks of 4 staff. One would think that this would be a most opportune moment to demand a fat pay rise but believe me, a hugely increased salary package is the last thing to ask for at the minute. My nearest and dearest, my inner circle, my Council of Elders will know exactly what I mean. To those who don't, well then you have that much to aspire to so that you're privy to the choicest cuts of gossip this side of Chaoyang District.

When it's as cold as Beijing this time of year, the partying and bar-crawling takes a backseat until the following year when spring breaks. Then, I can be stylishly presentable and stop wearing thermal underwear which really, really is the most unfashionable item of clothing that one can own. And yet, I am grudgingly grateful to the several pairs in my wardrobe for keeping me from the icy grip of death by hypothermia. Anyway, it is quite impossible to gather blog fodder when your weekdays consist of fending off the next wave of work-stress induced panic attacks and weekends are spent slumped in front of the telly and covered in homemade chocolate chip cookie crumbs. But there are rewards to be reaped by going out, namely encountering socially inept Party members' children who are highly entertaining if you like watching desperate Chinese girls throw themselves at the first white man who pays them any sliver of attention.

The Club M boys and I made Saturday a bit of a shopping excursion which brought us to the Zoo Wholesale Market a.k.a Dongwuyuan Pifa Shichang in the morning and the decidedly ghetto Tiancheng Shichang near the National Library in the afternoon. Max and I split up with Matt D and Matt K who launched devastating kan3jia4 assaults on unsuspecting stall owners. Watching them whittle an intial offer for a 5-foot Xmas tree complete with lights and ornaments down to RMB40 (less than USD5) to futile bleats of "pei2qian2!" from the Yuletide knick-knack seller was really rather painful so we took our money and spent it on RMB1 (USD0.12) tchotchkes for Max and more thermal underwear for me.

[This morning, I managed to wriggle a calf, a thigh and a buttcheek one at a time into a brand new pair of thermals after a long and exhausting struggle that left me (more) flustered (than usual) and late for work (as usual).]

We caught up at the designated meeting point after fruitful 2-hour procurement expedition - beyond the main entrance leading out from the underground Tiancheng market, up the stairs past the same man on the right with the same shivering kittens for sale as we had seen on the way down, facing the sight of a leathery old woman beggar with hearts just as cold and turning a well-trained deaf ear to the clinking of coins in her tin cup as she beseeched kind souls in the crowd for loose change.

After a short but mandatory on the spot comparison of purchases, Matt D told us about the strange girl who followed him around the market. It turned out that in true Matt D fashion, he decided to strike up a conversation with the nearest random stranger. The girl, he said, was unemployed and liked shopping to while her time away. She showed him the two purchases she had made that day - a couple of dangly mobile phone trinkets (surprise, surprise. I'm sure they were pastel coloured and cutesey as hell too.) She must also have held the mistaken assumption that announcing herself as the daughter of a senior Party cadre would be a foolproof pick-up line with American men because that's exactly what she did next. And then, with Matt captivated by her edgy style and political blueblood lineage, she moved in for the kill by requesting an exchange of numbers. Matt D's phone rang just as he was relating that part of the story. Sure enough, it was the girl he had just met at the market.

"Would you like to go to the Forbidden City tomorrow?"
"Uh... that's okay, I've already been."
"How about the Summer Palace? I can take you there and show you around."
"Erm... I've been there too. "
"No problem! I'm free, I can show you around."
"Well I'm pretty busy actually..."
"So when will you be free?"
"I... I really don't know. I'll be busy all week, I've got lots of studying to do."

A short verbal tussle later, Matt D hung up, the consequences of his over-friendliness slowly dawning upon him. I asked why on earth he hadn't politely declined to exchange phone numbers to avoid the unnecessary hassle of uncourted attention, to which he mumbled something about the thrill of an ego buffing or something or another which I couldn't quite catch in its entirety, but I knew exactly what he meant.

That night, after Max had frogmarched me to and back from dinner at a distant Yunnan restaurant (Matt K had other engagements, Matt D went cheerfully of his own accord), we sat down in our usual spots on the sofa watching DVDs. We were halfway through a mediocre performance by Tony Jaa in Tom Yum Goong (then again, it's difficult to better that superb feat of wireless, special effects-free fight scenes and dizzying Bangkok tuk-tuk city chases in Ong Bak ) when the muffled sounds of Matt D's phone in his jacket pocket drifted across the living room. It had disconnected by the time Matt D got to it and he did not recognise the number on his Missed Calls register. Call me cynical but I had a good idea who it was. To be fair, it was just as likely Matt D's 4th cousin, twice removed on his maternal grandmother's side calling from the Shijiazhuang Grand Hotel in Daxing while in town on business.

But I'm positive it was her.

The next day as we were getting ready to go out for lunch, Matt D's phone rang again. Half-amused and a little exasperated, Matt D later told us that the conversation went a little something like this:

"Are you free today?"
"Well... not... not really."
"Come and meet me at Tiananmen!"
"I'm sorry?"
"I've got a Christmas present for you. Come and meet me in Tiananmen, I want to see you."
"I'm really very busy, I'm sorry, that's very nice of you."
"But I want to see you. I want to give you your present."
"You're asking me to leave Wudaokou and go to Tiananmen?"
"But I've got a Christmas present for you!"

Another spot of to-ing and fro-ing not unlike yesterday ensued. After he hung up, Matt D wondered out loud why every Chinese girl wanted to drag him around tourist attractions as a prelude to expressing their true feelings for him while I pondered whether being a white male was the main criteria to receiving such preferential treatment as I stuffed thick be-socked feet into my boots.

Sunday, December 11, 2005

Baby, it's cold outside

Gone are the days when one could take a leisurely stroll through park and watch the world go by as one rests on the bench with the pleasant late afternoon sun shining down. Oh no. Winter is officially here, and I have, after a long, drawn-out resistance, given in to the need for thermal underwear. So what do you do when you are forced to stay at home all day and remain sheltered from the elements but when all 41 TV channels offer nothing but the usual shite: period dramas, programmes commemorating the anti-Japanese Movement and infomercials of anti-bacterial Y-fronts which kill off the parasitic organisms that cause the testes to resemble a couple of raisins? The Matts, Max and I decided to take matters of amusement into our own hands and had a bit of fun with some nifty picture-taking software on MattD's computer.

Note: the following images are not suitable for persons of sensitive or easily-distressed disposition.

Oh ... dear God... What monster have we created.... WHAT HAVE WE DONE??!

Floating shrunken Jo Head.

I think I'd make a really cute Malaysian boy but Matt D looks like Granny Smith.

MattK:"Dude... that is like... so totally radical man... that's far out dude..."
Me:"Dude... I like... make a totally freaky dude... totally cosmic, man..."


MattD:"Oi! What the *&^**!?! do you think you're doing? You looking at me, punk?"
Me:"Og.. urgh... Oggg... Yeurgh...Grugh...!"

Me:"Aww... what a cute baby!"
MattD:"Yeah, we can make a nice stew with it, throw in some potatoes and carrots and onions..."


I have decided that I really do not want to wear the pants in this relationship. And I want my hair back, Max.

Friday, December 09, 2005

Chinese Coal Miners - Part I

I came across this photo blog on Peking Duck. My thoughts go out to the brave men who work deep beneath the ground and their families in light of the recent mining accidents that have followed one after another and the dozens more which will never be reported. It is sad the only time we are reminded of their existence is, ironically, when they are no longer with us. When will the unsafe practices stop and when will enough be enough?

Captions accompanying the pictures are direct translations from the originals. which can be found here. The humanity of these men on whom the world's fastest growing economy depend so much really shine through these images and I hope that they touch you as much as they have touched me. Spare a thought for the true heroes of Chinese modernisation who have sacrificed so much for so very little.

Thanks to Shanghaiist who first brought these pictures to the attention of TPD's Richard and subsequently mine.

A coal mine in Xiangzhong (Hunan Province). Summer temperatures in southern China can soar as high as 40 degrees Celcius. Coal miners who have been working in the pits 450 metres underground for 8 hours haul their indescribly exhausted bodies back above the ground. They see the sun once again and breathe the fresh air. Clean water washes away the soot from their bodies. You can see the happiness at going home on their faces and feel their joy. Today, I have captured you using the camera in my hands, but will I see you again the next time I visit? Hard-working miners - I wish you well!

There is a blackboard in the small room at the pit entrance where miners pick up their lamps. Each number on the blackboard represent a miner's life which change as frequently as the numbers, hurriedly coming and going...

Back above ground, the miners are in good spirits. Hard labour is over for now and it is time to reunite with their families .

Sometimes, miners working in the pits earn miserable daily wages because solid rock formations or mechanical malfunctions hamper progress and production levels. These returning miners' are deeply disappointed...

The bond between coal miners are like that of brothers, their love like those of hands and feet. They are connected through they toil together in the depths of the earth, in life and death, through adversity and hardship.

Carefully read expression in the eys of each miner as he comes and goes from the pits - they are so deeply solemn and stirring. One look will haunt forever.

At the entrance of the pit, I observed that through years of close contact with coal the hands of many of the miners had turned yellow from exposure to sulphur . The two hands belonging to this labourer here mines more than 20 tonnes of coal a day from the pit but earns a daily wage of less than 30 Yuan (USD3.70).

Coal miners are the axle of the great wagon representing our society. This giant wagon of humanity could not move forward without them.

The sun never fails to shine down on the backs of miners returning from the pits. They will always be messengers of light. Alas, light forever eludes them!

Every miner returning from the pit looks forward to the sun because it represents freedom. Is there anyone who does not look forward to being free...?

Coal miners have a happy attitude toward the realities of life. But in their eyes, what is "happiness"?

It is very common in the coal hills for sons to follow their fathers footsteps because that is what life demands of them.

The hardest thing inside a coal hill are the hands of a miner and his passionate heart.

Come out from the mine and take a deep breath of fresh air! Feel the warmth of the sun!! Have a cigarette! Today's work is over!


Wash away the fatigue of the day, live each day to the fullest. Here's to all miner brothers!

Chinese Coal Miners - Part II

(This is the second part of the English translation of a Chinese photo blog depicting the everyday lives of miners in China.)

I was just leaving the coal hill when I saw the innocence in the eyes of this new coal miner and my own slowly grew misty.

Rescue worker at the scene of a mining accident in Henan.

The world looks very, very small when looking up from the entrance of the pit but one can find sunshine and fresh air up there.

Hills of coal residue piled high can be found at the bottom of a lot of such pits. These hills contain countless number of lives!

In the springtime, I saw the form of a little coal miner next to a machine on a coal hill. Fragile and tiny is the tender leaf that sprouts against steel.

I went to the end of the coal hill where I could go no further. My eyes were full of forms of the miner brothers that I had photographed. Perhaps we will meet again on the side of the train tracks one day. I will bring my old camera again to take pictures of you and to remember your stories.


The back belonging to another miner brother who was going up the hill just as I was coming down. He gradually disappeared into a small coal hill in the south of the mines.

This wood is used to mine coal and makes me think of many things. Actually they are the form of miners.

Miners at the beginning and end of their shifts.

I visited some other small coal hills a while ago. The mining and working conditions there were even harsher.

I will never forget these rough conditions. A tunnel as high as a man accompany the miners day after day as they carry out their difficult tasks...

How do you feel when you see the miners in the distance?

This giant scale records the amount of coal collected by miners each day and is their constant companion through the seasons, in happiness, anger, grief and joy!


At midnight, this month's last two remaining grain tickets will follow the departing miner to a faraway place! The scene are you are witnessing is the life of a miner.


In the early morning, puffs of slowly billowing smoke and the coal hill dawn chorus of pots, pans and other crockery rise from the miners' simple. A new day has just begun.

Tuesday, December 06, 2005

Warm bellies, cold Beijing nights

Alright then, hands up those of you who did not leave your cosy, central heated apartments last weekend. I don't blame you. Saturday and Sunday were the embodiment of all the reasons I hate the winter and why I think think it is the most pointless, godawful, evolutionary screw up this side of the galaxy. Max is still in the denial stage of accepting that sub-zero temperature is the original freak of nature. I expect him to come round when his frostbitten schnozz falls off his cute little mug.


It took a very good reason to convince me to step out the door at all and Caribbean food at Dionne's washed down with Bajan rum shooters is about as good as it gets! Dionne and her Little Helpers i.e. Dirk and Sophie had been slaving in the kitchen all day when I arrived. I promptly got on with cutting up the French loaf which was my meagre contribution to the bountiful spread of gastronomical delights. My efforts didn't exactly merit 3 Michelin Stars but, to be honest, there's not much you can add to an entire roast turkey, homemade cranberry relish, BBQ'd pork ribs, black eyed peas, Mauritian potato chutney, sweet potato casserole, stuffing and papaya salsa, not forgetting the tuna, pumpkin & pine and spinach & cashew dips that went with the French loaf I hacked into uneven chunks.

"Look Ma! I still have at least TWO fingers left after that venture into the kitchen. That's a record!"

Dirk:"Not so fast, lady, hand over the silverware."

Me, Sophie and Anou.

Eva-va-va-voom!

Max, a shining example of good guest etiquette - drink the beer your host offers to you and always express your appreciation with a smile.

Louise:"You're not my husband! What have you done with him?!"
JosefBot:"Heh heh heh... now I have you all to myself, my lovely..."

Anou and Martin

Max looking like he's been caught with his hand in the cookie jar on his 14th trip to the buffet table.

We had all eaten till we were about to pop so the girls decided to make the best of our newly acquired pot-bellies. Obviously somebody had to go first...

"You want me to do what??!"



Celine gives the booty shake belly dancing malarky a go...


... but Dionne wasn't terribly impressed...

Anou shows us how it's done...



... while i chase her ass around the room with the camera...


... until i get a perfect shot...

The paparazzi gets papped!

Back to normal, and Max decides that I'm safe to be around again.